poniedziałek, 25 lipca 2016

If you want to visit Frederic Chopin`s birthplace, you should go to a hamlet upon Utrata River


The text was published at http://www.communications-unlimited.nl/if-you-want-to-visit-frederic-chopins-birthplace-you-should-go-to-a-hamlet-upon-utrata-river/

The enthusiasts of Chopin's noble-sounding music perfectly know this village. There is a birthplace of famous Polish composer whose music 167 years after his death still invokes emotions among listeners all over the world. The birth house of Frédéric Francois Chopin is a kind of mecca to all his admirers. 

Last Wednesday we were driving a car to Żelazowa Wola, the mecca I am writing about. When we were leaving Warsaw, our home town, it was sunny and weather app showed this would be the only one rainless day that week. And unlike all forecasts rain caught us on highway, heavy rain and sky became overcast. We were upset since we were going to take pictures of the estate, a popular place of interest and all those clouds above didn`t seem to disappear soon. I recalled a field trip I was on as a young student, when we were travelling to see where our music genius was born. We treated all those school expeditions as boring experience but also as a chance to leave even more boring lessons behind. Now my son was travelling with me. It was midweek but he was on a sick leave however not so ill not to take a trip with me. When we got to Żelazowa Wola it became suddenly bright, rain started fading out and clouds broke. It was amazing. We could take photos and we also got bonus. There is free admission on Wednesdays.  

The Poles used to call Chopin by Polish name: Fryderyk, we also recognize him as Polish. He was born in our country, he moved to Paris when he was 21 but for someone who died at the age of 39 Polish period of Chopin`s life was quite long. And his mother was Polish. Do you need more arguments to see one of the most famous artists was Polish by birth and heart?

The member of the late 19th/early 20th century modernist movement Young Poland Karol Szymanowski wrote "The 'Polish character' of Chopin's work is unquestionable; not because he also wrote polonaises and mazurkas, which forms were often stuffed with alien ideological and literary contents from the outside. As an artist he looked for forms that stood apart from the literary-dramatic character of music which was a feature of Romanticism, as a Pole he reflected in his work the very essence of the tragic break in the history of the people and instinctively aspired to give the deepest expression of his nation. For he understood that he could invest his music with the most enduring and truly Polish qualities only by liberating art from the confines of dramatic and historical contents. This attitude toward the question of "national music" – an inspired solution to his art – was the reason why Chopin's works have come to be understood everywhere outside of Poland. Therein lies the strange riddle of his eternal vigour".

We were strolling in the park and listening to Chopin`s music. Sun was shining, it was drizzling as if we were at Hawaiian seaside having light tropical rain, we could hear very soft tunes and experienced rainbow. Do you need anything else to feel happiness in yourself?

French father insisted on the use of the Polish language in the household
Chopin`s date of birth is unclear. The parish baptismal record gives his birthday as February 22nd, 1810 however, the composer and his family used the birth date March 1st, which is now generally accepted as the correct date.

His Father, Nicholas, was a French émigré who was working as a bookkeeper when he met and married Tekla Justyna Krzyżanowska. Soon after Frédéric was born.

The future composer grew up in a middle-class family. The estate where he was born and where we eventually got to belonged to Count Skarbek where Fryderyk`s father was a tutor and mother was a poor relative of the Count, who gave them assistance. The Chopins actually lived in an annexe right next to the main house. When Fryderyk was seven months old, the family moved to Warsaw permanently.

Nicolas was devoted to his adopted homeland, and insisted on the use of the Polish language in the household.

Although Fryderyk Chopin lived in Żelazowa Wola for seven months the birthplace of renown worldwide as one of the leading musicians of his era became a “must-see” spot.

Enchanted audience and poetically expressive perfomances
His father's employment exposed young Chopin to cultured Warsaw society, and his mother introduced him to music at an early age. By the age of 6, young Chopin was able to play piano and compose tunes. Recognizing his talent, his family engaged professional musician Wojciech Żywny for lessons and soon pupil surpassed teacher in both technique and imagination.

By 1818 Chopin was performing in exquisite salons and creating his own compositions, including the Polonaise in G Minor. By 1826 he had composed several piano pieces in different styles and his parents enrolled him at the Warsaw Conservatory of Music, where he studied for three years in conducting under Polish composer, music teacher and theoretician Józef Elsner. Elsner was one of the first composers in Poland to weave elements of folk music into his works. And that was what Chopin adopted in his later works.

However, sensing he needed a broader musical experience, Chopin was eventually sent to Vienna, where he made his performance debut in 1829. Audience was enchanted with his highly technical yet poetically expressive performances. Over the next few years, Chopin performed in Poland, Germany, Austria and Paris, where he settled in 1832. There he quickly established relationships with other young composers, among them Franz Liszt, Vincenzo Bellini and Felix Mendelssohn.

Europe was Chopin's world
Although in moments of anguish he seriously considered the possibility of emigrating to America, he remained in Paris for the rest of his life. Chopin's art had its origins in Polish musical traditions but its roots went deeper, to the works of Europe's greatest masters of past eras. He admired the genius of Bach and Mozart, appreciated and idolized the monumental works of Beethoven and Handel. In his teens Chopin developed a fascination for the virtuoso style called brillant, which reigned supreme in European piano playing at that time. The performances in Warsaw of the phenomenal Italian violinist Niccolò Paganini enchanted Chopin and inspired him to write his first etude cycle, which turned out to be a musical masterpiece. Also Chopin's famous legato, a singing style of playing, had its roots in the Italian opera style of bel canto.

At the other end of the composer's spectrum of interest was folk music, both Polish and European. As written above, it might be adopted from Józef Elsner, Chopin's teacher. Fryderyk`s works, especially those based on dance forms, are widely known to convey his poetic interpretation of Polish popular music. Yet the “official” part of Chopin's music also includes the Bolero, the Barcarolle and the Tarantella, which pieces show a similar source although with roots in Spain and Italy. Apart from his “official” output, we find evidence of Chopin being open and responsive to the original creativity of the people of both town and country. One is the composer's mention of a Wallachian lullaby he had heard somewhere, and others are his written accounts of nocturnal music-making in the streets of Palma and of singing in the villages around Nohant, of the Spanish song evenings performed by Pauline Viardot and the evenings of Swedish songs sung softly by Jenny Lind.

Chopin in Paris
While in Paris, Chopin found his gentle style didn't always enthrall the larger concert audience, who had been exposed to the works of Franz Schubert and Ludwig van Beethoven. A complete fortuitous introduction to the Rothschild family opened new doors and gave him new possibilities. Chopin soon found employment in the great parlors of Paris as both recitalist and teacher. His increased income allowed him to live well and compose such pieces as Nocturnes of Opp. 9 and 15, the Scherzo in B-flat minor, Op. 31 and the Sonata in B-flat minor, Op. 35.

The composer was open to the enormous wealth of experiences offered by the surrounding world. In Paris, the capital of that world, Chopin rubbed shoulders with outstanding representatives of various nations. He lived through the emergence and clashing of the various trends which influenced historical developments in France and elsewhere. He admired the works of the doyens of literature, he was a keen opera- and theatre-goer and mixed well in society. Chopin took a detached view of the political and social scene and summed up current developments wittily and accurately.  Paris was like a mirror reflecting life in the Europe of his days but Chopin also had many opportunities to have a close look at that life during his foreign travels, because, despite his poor health and frequent complaints about the inconvenience of long journeys, he travelled a lot in his short life. 

The biggest love story of the Romantic era broken by death disease
Though Chopin had had youthful love affairs and was at one time engaged, none of his relationships lasted more than a year. In 1838 he began a love affair with French novelist Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin, AKA, George Sand. The couple spent a harsh winter on the island of Majorca, south of France, where Chopin became ill. In March 1839, Sand realized that Chopin needed medical attention and took him to Marseille, where he was diagnosed with consumption (tuberculosis).

After a period of recuperation in Marseille, in May 1839 Chopin and Sand settled south of Paris in Nohant, Sand's country house. The next seven years proved to be the happiest and most productive period of Chopin's life. He steadily composed a series of masterpieces, including the Sonata in B Minor, the Opus 55 Nocturnes and the Opus 56 Mazurkas. The growing demand for his new works and his greater understanding of the publishing business also brought increased income and provided Chopin an elegant lifestyle.

Chopin`s Heritage
In the fifty years after the composer's death many eulogies were uttered and written about him. His works were published and played across Europe. In the early 20th century famous Polish pianist, composer and politician Ignacy Jan Paderewski took his music to the western hemisphere, thus beginning its triumphant march through the continents. Soon afterwards the most celebrated pianists went all over the globe to give concerts. Record companies were quick to move in, recording the finest performances on discs and releasing them in great numbers. The International Chopin Piano Competition in Warsaw deserves a mention, too. During its impressive history it has discovered and promoted many excellent Chopin performers, and as a regular event, it attracted more and more participants from a growing number of countries. In the 20th century thousands of publishers revived Chopin's work and countless biographies were published in many, even most unexpected languages. The Chopin myth inspired literary works, paintings, films and plays. Posthumously he is loved by millions of people all over the world. And his surname, his works, his music, his genius are the best Poland`s showcase abroad. The great composer`s popularity has made The Birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin and Park in Żelazowa Wola been visited continuously for decades by his music admirers from all around the world.  
  
Chopin`s birthplace
The idea of creating a Chopin museum in Żelazowa Wola arose in the late 19th century, but it was only implemented in the 1930s. At that time, the Chopin annexe was thoroughly renovated and a columned porch was added, lending the building the character of a noble manor house. At the same time, work began on arranging the interiors. The inauguration of the new museum was prevented by the outbreak of war, in 1939. The museum was not officially opened until 1949, on the centenary of Fryderyk Chopin’s death.

The first display was produced in the spirit of a Polish manor house. The second was prepared in 2010 for the bicentenary of Chopin’s birth. That was marked by simplicity and a sparing style. Many exhibits were removed, and a narrative (audio guide) leading the visitor around the memorial park and the interior of the house became a crucial element of the display. That narrative was based on the results of source research into the history of Chopin’s birthplace, which was carried out on a wide scale prior to Chopin Year (2010).

***
Fryderyk Chopin died October 17th, 1849. The last will of famous composer was to take his heart posthumously to Warsaw. His sister Ludwika did it and now it rests at the Church of the Holy Cross (Kościół św. Krzyża). When you are at the church, you can visit Ostrogski Palace which is nearby and where is The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw.

***
When we were leaving the park we were passed by a group of grammar school pupils. Their teacher was telling them about Fryderyk Chopin, of course and I brought back on my mind this forgotten image of me standing there as a little girl listening to a teacher or rather to my peers. And I had one thought: we are lucky we live so close to the birthplace of one of the leading musicians of his era and still renown worldwide one. The Japanese who love Chopin`s music have to travel thousand miles to touch his ground and that makes them always happy. I might have this thought because I am grown up and eventually can appreciate what is really important in the world and life. If you can also do this, I think you should take a trip and go there. It`s worth visiting.


See you there!

Photos by Bożena Szostkowska & Michał Stanisławski 

Żelazowa Wola April 20th, 2016

















Żelazowa Wola 2010















poniedziałek, 18 lipca 2016

If you want to check where one of the world`s artistic capital is located you should go to Kazimierz Dolny


The text was published at http://www.communications-unlimited.nl/if-you-want-to-check-where-one-of-the-worlds-artistic-capitals-is-located-you-should-go-to-kazimierz-dolny/

The legend says Esterka, Jewish lover of Kazimierz Wielki (Casimir III the Great) lived there and that`s why King of Poland granted the Jews a writ of rights which caused Kazimierz Dolny to become a focal point for Jewish immigration. This small and lovely town is well known for many reasons: long and rich history of artistic settlement, Europe`s leadership in loess ravines, Poland`s oldest church organ which dates back to 1620, considerable film festival although there is not any cinema in the town, Poland`s biggest riverine flotilla and the only one jewelry art museum in the whole country. If I haven`t already convinced you to visit this place it means you should read this text to see that Kazimierz Dolny is a "must see" place. I should add crucial information that the town is one of Poland's official national Historic Monuments (Pomnik historii), as designated September 16, 1994 and tracked by the National Heritage Board of Poland. As I wrote two weeks ago Poland holds the 8th place in Europe and the 17th in the world on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Are you convinced? Nope? Let me tell you a story about this wonderful place of interest. I hope I shall encourage you to go to Kazimierz Wielki...

Poland`s artistic heart lies in Kazimierz Dolny
... which is - as I wrote above - an art center in Poland. Many painters retreat to this small town to paint and sell their work. Galleries can be found in almost every street, offering for sale sculptures, stained-glass, folk art and fine art.
The artists had been going to this town since the late 18th century. The greatest Polish painters and sculptors made their works there but decisive year for Kazimierz Dolny was 1909 when Władysław Ślewiński, Paul Gouguin`s close friend came to the town bringing with him the students from the famous French art school in Pont Aven.

After World War I, Kazimierz became just a haven for artists, mainly painters. In 1923, Tadeusz Pruszkowski (professor at the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw) initiated open-air summer programmes for his students. A group of painters founded St Luke’s Fellowship. Antoni Michalak, a member of the group and student of Pruszkowski, settled in Kazimierz for good.

The King`s heart located in Kazimierz Dolny
The legend about the king’s relationship with a beautiful Jewess, Esterka, has survived till the present. The king built a castle for Esterka in nearby Bochotnica; it was supposedly connected with the Kazimierz fortress by an underground tunnel.

Focal point for Jewish immigration
We have already learnt that a small Jewish community was present in the city from the time of King Kazimierz Wielki (Casimir III the Great) in the 14th century and the King granted the Jews a writ of rights which caused the town to become a focal point for Jewish immigration. When John III Sobieski became King in 1674, he granted the Jews of Poland a respite from taxes. Sobieski also reconfirmed for the Jews all the rights they had been granted by a previous king. During his reign, the housing restrictions were abolished and the Jewish community began to flourish again.

If you want to know what name Kazimierz Dolny derives from we need to take a journey further to the past, namely look at the history of this town which dates back to the 11th century. In the area of today's Kazimierz in the early middle ages there already existed a settlement called Wietrzna Gora (Windy Hill) which alongside the neighbouring hamlets was bestowed at the end of the 12th century (1181) by Kazimierz Sprawiedliwy (Kazimierz the Just) to the Norbertan nuns from Cracow's Zwierzyniec. It is thought that the nuns changed the name of the settlement to Kazimierz in order to honour their benefactor. The oldest document in which appeared this name comes from 1249. Later on, the adjective Dolny (Lower) was added, to distinguish the town from the Jewish town Kazimierz - now a district of Cracow (Kraków).

In the 19th century, Yehezkel Taub, a disciple of the "Seer of Lublin", founded the Hasidic dynasty of Kuzmir in the town.

Between the First and Second World Wars, the Jewish population was about 1,400, half the total population of the town. During the Holocaust era, a Judenrat was established in the town, where the Nazi Germans forced the town's Jews to perform forced labor and to pave roads using tombstones from the local Jewish cemetery. After the Holocaust, a memorial wall was erected using the pieces that survived. In 1940, the Nazis established a ghetto, bringing all the Jews from the surrounding Puławy County to live within. In 1942, the Jews who survived the starvation, disease and slave labor were taken to Belzec to be "exterminated". At the end of 1942, the town was officially declared by the Nazis "free of Jews".

During WWII, the thriving Jewish community of Kazimierz all but disappeared. The only reminders left of the Jewish people are the 18th century synagogue, the building of the kosher butcher’s shop and the Jewish cemetery - kirkut.
One of the most famous Jewish residents of the town was the painter and sculptor Chaim Goldberg. Another was the noted journalist S. L. Shneiderman, who wrote about Kazimierz Dolny in his book "The River Remembers".

Market town since the 14th century
In the early 14th century, the village became a royal possession and King Władysław Łokietek (Władysław I the Elbow-high) founded there a parish church in 1325.

The tower was built in the Middle Ages and was most likely a part of the former castle. In the mid 14th century, King Kazimierz Wielki (Casimir III the Great) erected a castle made of stone just below the tower. As we have already known, the king also gave the settlement municipal rights.

King Władysław II Jagiełło (1362 - 1434) modernized Kazimierz Dolny, creating a modern town, with a market square and streets. At that time, the decision was taken not to build any houses on the northern side of the market square, so as not to obstruct the view of the church and the castle.

The 16th and 17th centuries were the town’s golden age. Being a crossroads of trade routes, it became very rich dealing in goods, especially corn. The beautiful granaries along the river bank commemorate this period together with the renaissance outlay of the town and the magnificently decorated tenement houses that belonged to rich merchant families (Przybyło, Celej, Górski).

In 1501 Kazimierz Dolny became the home of a starosta, and the town was passed over to the noble Firlej family, remaining in its hands until 1644. The Firlejs twice rebuilt the town and the castle, after the fires of 1561 and 1585. They cared about privileged status of Kazimierz Dolny, as a merchant town, located along the busy waterway of the Vistula.

In 1628, Franciscan monks settled in Kazimierz, building a monastery and expanding the church. At that time Kazimierz already had three churches, out of which the most beautiful is the parish church (fara) that was renewed in the style of lubelski renaissance and in 1620, received the largest organ in Poland at that time.

The town's golden age ended in February 1656, when Swedish troops under King Charles X Gustav burned and ransacked it. They brought the decline of Kazimierz’s magnificence. The town was never to regain it again. The number of inhabitants declined, and King John III Sobieski tried to improve the situation, by allowing in 1677 Armenian, Greek and Jewish merchants to settle there. Meanwhile, the profitable Vistula river trade came to an end, as there was no demand for Polish grains in Western Europe. In the late 18th century, as a result of the Partitions of Poland, Kazimierz Dolny was cut from the port of Gdańsk and turned into a town of minor importance. After the fall of the January Uprising (1863 - 1864), Kazimierz lost its municipal rights and became a country settlement.

Since the late 19th century, rich residents of Lublin and Warsaw became interested in the picturesque village. Spas and villas were constructed, and in 1927, already in the Second Polish Republic, Kazimierz Dolny once again became a town. Partly destroyed in World War II, it was rebuilt, and on September 8, 1994, its center was officially recognized as a historical monument.

After the war, the town became an artistic and tourist attraction. Painters and landscapists started coming to Kazimierz again. Maria and Jerzy Kuncewiczowie, the famous Polish writers and novelists settled here for good.
Artistic events such as the Polish Folklore Festival and the Film Festival “The Film Summer" are held here together with summer concerts of organ music at the church. There are also museums: the Nadwiślańskie Museum, the Natural Science Museum, Kamienica Celejowska, the Goldsmith Museum, the Kuncewiczówka House, and numerous art galleries.

A rooster from Kazimierz Dolny
When you come to my country you can be delicacy trails traveller since every Polish city has its own delicious regional product. A baked rooster-shaped bread is Kazimierz Dolny attraction and you can`t buy anything there but a baked rooster bread is a must. The tourists visiting the town are crazy about it and no one can leave the city without freshly baked "souvenir". The right to baking rooster was disputing for long time but eventually the court adjudicated these disputes between bakers and declared baked rooster bread was common good of all inhabitants of Kazimierz Dolny.

If I convinced you to go to Kazimierz Dolny, you musn`t miss following places of interest. Let`s make wrap-up!

The Castle
As you have already read, on top of the hill there are ruins of the castle built under the reign of the King Kazimierz Wielki (Casimir III the Great). Initially it was defensive structure with la ittle tower facing the town and bigger one facing The Vistula River.

The building was changed especially during the Renaissance. The courtyard was extended, new age adornment and attics were added. It was heavily damaged during the Deluge and was reconstructed during the reign of the King August Mocny (Augustus II The Strong). The castle was damaged again during the battles between the King and Stanisław Leszczyński whom Sweden wanted to establish and place on the throne to have this way more influence on the Polish state. In 1806 it went to rack and ruin so far the Austrian governor ordered to knock down the attics which were theatening to collapse. They were never reconstructed. Now the Castle is anything but very romantic ruins.

The Tower
On top of the castle hill there is a round tower from 13th and 14th century. The “upper castle”, as it was called, had a military significance before the actual castle was erected. Some researchers claim that it was a toll chamber and at night it served as a beacon. From the top, one can admire the beautiful view of Kazimierz Dolny and the Vistula.

On the western side there is a vaulted entrance. It was probably connected with a ramp by a draw-bridge, which was typical for late Middle Age defence systems. The interior of the tower is divided into five levels, each one with its beams that once supported the wooden floors.

St Anna’s church
It is also called the hospital church. In 1530, a wooden structure already existed. In 1660, a brick one was built (the date you can find on the rainbow beam). Another inscription was discovered on the northern wall according to which the church was consecrated by Bishop Mikołaj Oborski in 1671. The church is an imitation of the parish church in such aspects as outlay, shape, thickness of the walls and more significant decorative elements.

The church consists of the rectangular nave and a narrow presbytery behind which there is the sacristy and the treasury upstairs. Under the presbytery there is a crypt in which there are coffins and corpses. There are two entrance doors, the main one and the lateral one. The front and rear elevations are finished off with renaissance gables resembling the front gable of the parish church. They are adorned with pilasters and niches. The side elevations have four pilasters each. Above the rainbow wall there is a signature. There once was a library in the church’s treasury which later on was transferred to the parish church.

If you are sated with Kazimierz Dolny, you can take tourist trails around the town and commune.

Vistula Trail (Polish: Szlak Nadwiślański), blue, Dęblin – Annopol (total distance: 98 km) covering the section: Wąwóz Okalski – Mięćmierz – Kazimierz Dolny – Bochotnica – Kolonia Zbędowice – Parchatka

Bolesław Prus Trail (Polish: Szlak im. Bolesława Prusa), red, Lublin – Kazimierz Dolny, covering the section: Rzeczyca – Skowieszynek – Kazimierz Dolny

Independence Trail (Polish: Szlak Niepodległościowy), green, Bochotnica – Baranów, covering the section: Bochotnica – Wierzchoniów – Okręglica

Black trail (Polish: Szlak czarny), Puławy – Parchatka, covering the section: Parchatka – Kolonia Zbędowice – Mount of Three Crosses (Polish: Góra Trzech Krzyży) in Parchatka – Parchatka.

***
If you decide to go to Kazimierz Dolny you must know the town is part of the so-called tourist triangle: Puławy – Kazimierz Dolny – Nałęczów. Don`t miss these two towns which are also beautiful and magical. They are really worth visiting. You can believe me.


I hope I shall meet you there.


Photos by Bożena Szostkowska & Michał Stanisławski